Swimming spots
In summer, rivers and pools are the best way to cool off: natural pools on the Omaña, river beaches on the Órbigo and public swimming pools. River spots are natural settings with no lifeguard; depth and currents change. Take extra care after heavy rain and during the snowmelt, and always keep an eye on children.
La Omañuela · natural pool, Omaña river · 5 km · 10 min
Tables, benches, some shade; no bar or toilets. Dogs: yes, under control.
Castro de la Lomba · natural spot, Omaña river · 3 km · 5 min
Tables, benches, shade; no bar, toilets or drinking fountain. Dogs: yes, under control.
El Castillo · natural spot, Omaña river · 8 km · 10 min
Shade; Bar Hermanos Prieto in the village. Dogs: yes, under control.
La Utrera · natural spot by the suspension bridge · 10 km · 15 min
Bar La Utrera in the village. Dogs: yes, under control.
Llamas de la Ribera · river beach, Órbigo river · 27 km · 30 min
Green areas, playground, zip line, mini golf, sports courts and food and drink; no lifeguard, untreated water. Season: mid-June to early September. Dogs: not on the beach; allowed around it.
Cimanes del Tejar · river beach, Órbigo river · 30 km · 35 min
Picnic areas, playground, swimming pool and parking; El Mesón and Casa Aurelia restaurants. Dogs: not in the swimming area.
La Magdalena swimming pools · public pool · 12 km · 15 min
Changing rooms, shade and a bar in season. Dogs: no.
Rioseco de Tapia swimming pools · public pool (Los Jardines) · 22 km · 25 min
Changing rooms, gardens and parking. Dogs: no.
Opening hours, prices and bars change every season: check before you go.
Day trips
León · 45 km · 45 min
What to see: the Cathedral (stained glass; best in the morning), San Isidoro (Royal Pantheon, "the Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art"), Casa Botines (Gaudí), Plaza Mayor and the old town, San Marcos (Parador, by the Bernesga river) and MUSAC (coloured-glass façade; 20 min walk from the Cathedral).
Where to eat, our favourites: €€€ Cocinandos · Plaza de San Marcos, 5 · +34 987 071 378 · Michelin star, weekly tasting menu, book ahead. €€ Casa Mando · C/ General Lafuente, s/n (ground floor of Hotel Conde Luna) · León produce and traditional recipes, €30–45, book ahead. € Los Cazurros · Plaza de San Martín, 5 · Barrio Húmedo · a free tapa with every drink.
Tips: park in a city-centre car park and walk; check Cathedral and San Isidoro opening times. With a dog: walks and terraces yes, monuments no.
Astorga and La Maragatería · 50 km · 50 min via the LE-451
What to see: Gaudí's Palace (Museo de los Caminos), the Cathedral, Roman walls and the Plaza Mayor with its Maragato clock figures. To take home: mantecadas (sponge cakes) and cecina (cured beef). 5 km away, Castrillo de los Polvazares, a stone-built Maragato village.
Cocido maragato (local stew): eaten in reverse (meats first, then chickpeas and vegetables, and the soup last); hearty, best at lunchtime; always book. Where to try it in Castrillo, well rated: Cuca La Vaina, Casa Coscolo and Almacén del Arriero.
With a dog: walks around Castrillo and the walls yes; museums and dining rooms no.
Faedo de Ciñera beech forest + lunch in Geras · 45 km · 45 min via La Magdalena and La Robla
Centuries-old beech forest, voted Spain's Best Forest in 2007. Loop, 4.5 km, about 120 m ascent, 1 h 30 – 2 h; with the Hoces de Villar gorge, about 5.5 km and 2–3 h. Not suitable for pushchairs; dogs under control.
Lunch: Entrepeñas · C/ José Álvarez González, 15 · Geras de Gordón · +34 987 597 090 / +34 987 597 083 · asparagus with cecina, €20–30, book ahead. Their own cured-meat factory since 1948.
For a longer walk: Boyariza beech forest, from Geras, the same village where you eat. Quieter than the Faedo and spectacular in autumn. Loop · 8.2 km · 380 m ascent · 3 h – 3 h 30, through the beech forest and the Foz de Palanco gorge. Park at Los Pisones, past Geras and the Cristo chapel. Dogs under control.
Vegacervera gorges + Valporquero Cave · 56 km · 1 h via La Robla and Matallana
Gorges: the Torio river canyon; stop and walk a stretch. Cave: standard tour 1 km and 1 h, long tour 1 h 30; 7 °C and almost 100 % humidity, bring a warm layer and non-slip shoes. Closing days vary by season: book at cuevadevalporquero.es. Free parking.
Lunch: Chousa Verde (Vegacervera), mountain cooking, weekends only; book ahead. On weekdays, bring a picnic.
With a dog: gorges yes; cave, ask.
Brañarronda and the Rioscuro yews · 42 km · 46 min via the LE-493
One of the best-preserved forests in Laciana, within the Biosphere Reserve. A mixed forest of birch, oak, maple, lime, holly and cherry shelters around ten yews over a thousand years old. Track on Wikiloc · loop · 8.2 km · 480 m ascent · 2 h 45 · moderate, with steep climbs.
What to see: the huts of the Brañarronda summer pasture, the stream's waterfall and the carved rock beneath a huge yew (the two detours are close together and well worth it). Higher up, the remains of the Las Murias pasture, with views over the whole valley. The return is along a comfortable, easy-to-follow track.
Getting there: start at km 52 of the LE-493, before reaching Rioscuro. It's a small lay-by with room for about three cars and easy to miss: keep a lookout.
Best from spring to autumn: in winter the path sections are slippery. There's a spring along the way. Wear hiking boots.
Lunch, well rated in the area: El Canto del Urogallo · Caboalles de Arriba · 9 km from the start · +34 686 408 421 · closed Mondays · home cooking and set menu; book in summer and at weekends. To make a day of it, continue up the pass to Restaurante Leitariegos (19 km · 25 min, in Asturias) · +34 985 056 201 · closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays · famous for its pote asturiano (bean and cabbage stew) · book, it fills up.
With a dog: yes, with the usual care around livestock.
Las Médulas and El Bierzo · 111 km · 1 h 35 via the A-6
A full day: set off early. The largest open-cast gold mine of the Roman Empire, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Orellán viewpoint (paid galleries) and trails from Las Médulas village (1–3 h); best early in the morning or at sunset. On the way: the Templar Castle in Ponferrada. Local food: botillo (in winter), roasted peppers and Mencía wine.
With a dog: trails yes; galleries and castle, ask.
Riaño · 106 km · 1 h 40 via La Robla, Boñar and Cistierna
A full day; gateway to the León side of the Picos de Europa. Reservoir ("the León fjords") and a village rebuilt in 1987; boat and kayak trips in season. To make a day of it: the Valdeón valley.
Lunch: Hotel Presa · Avda. Valcayo, 12 · +34 987 740 637 · Castilian cooking and Cantabrian seafood. Parrilla El Molino de Huelde · C/ Resejo, 10 · +34 987 740 814 · grill, €30–45.
With a dog: walks yes; boat, ask.